1. Turn off the main water shutoff valve.
2. Next, open all plumbing fixtures in the house including all outside faucets in order to drain the lines of all water possible.
3. Cut and remove a section of the main incoming water line near where the system is to be installed. Allowing this line to drain thoroughly.
4. Remove the yoke (or optional bypass valve) from the back of the tank valve by loosening the two small stainless steel clamps on either side of the rear valve assembly, that holds it in place. Then simply pull it off the back of the valve. Now that you have the yoke or bypass valve removed, follow the directions below to make them ready to install on the valve. (See Figure 1).
5. INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING A YOKE. If you have a standard Noryl Plastic yoke, it will have two ¾" or 1" male thread nipples, (one inlet & one outlet). You will need to buy two ¾" or 1" Female thread adapters to whatever type and size of piping you are plumbing the system to.
6. INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING A BYPASS. If you are using our optional ¾" or 1" brass bypass valve, you will need to purchase two ¾" or 1" Male thread adapters to whatever type and size pipe you are plumbing to.
7. If you are going to use copper piping and be soldering joints, we do not recommend applying intense heat, to your new valve/meter assembly. We always recommend that you remove the yoke or bypass from the valve assembly, and attach your plumbing adapters to the yoke or bypass away from the valve. This simple step will ensure that you are not applying any heat as you solder or pressure as you tighten the adapters onto the yoke/bypass, while they are mounted on the valve body itself.
8. Another tip if you are using copper adapters. Always solder a 3" to 5" piece of copper pipe into each of the two pipe adapters away from the valve, then let them cool off before threading each one onto the yoke or bypass valve.
9. After they cool off, apply pipe compound (we do not recommend using Teflon tape on these threads) to the male threads of the Noryl yoke, (or onto the male adapters for the brass bypass valve), and securely tighten them to the yoke or bypass valve. Again, doing this before you re-attach them back onto the rear of the valve/meter body assembly.
10. (Important!! WE DO NOT recommend connecting adapters to either the yoke or bypass valve, while the yoke or bypass valve is connected to the Valve/Meter assembly! You may exert too much pressure on the valve while securing the adapters, causing damage to the valve housing!)
11. After all soldering is finished and the adapters are securely threaded onto either the yoke or the brass bypass valve assembly, then attach the yoke or bypass valve back onto the valve/meter assembly and secure it with the two small stainless steel clamps. (See Figure 1).
12. Now position your conditioning system in place for the final water line installation.
13. Remember; If you are using our optional brass bypass valve, make certain the bypass valve is set in the "Service" position, while soldering the pipes to the system. Then return it to the "Bypass" position before turning your water back on to the house. (See Figure 2).
14. Measure and cut the lengths of pipe you need to plumb the main hard water line into your system. Then do the same for the conditioned water line that will exit from the system, back out into the house.
15. *NOTE* As you look directly into the two holes in your Fleck valve, the hard water line will always enter the hole on the LEFT SIDE of the yoke or bypass valve assembly. The valve body also has an arrow stamped into each side, showing the direction of flow. (See Figure 3).
16. If you use our optional bypass valve, arrows indicating water flow direction are printed on the top of the bypass valve assembly. (See Figure 2).
17. Just remember, that as you are looking directly into the two holes where the water enters and exits the valve, the hard water line from your house always enters the hole on the LEFT. The conditioned water flowing out from the system, back into your house is always the hole on the RIGHT. (See Figure 3).
18. If you purchased a Meter On Demand Water Softener, you will need to make sure the gold-tipped black cable protruding from the valve is securely plugged into the domed shaped portion of the rear of the valve. (See Figure 4).

Figure 1.

Figure 2.

Figure 3.

Figure 4.

1. All of our Fleck valves have a drain hose barb, generally located on the lower, backside or side of the valve. First, check to make certain this drain hose barb is securely threaded into the valve body and that the threads have been sealed with Teflon tape. (See Figure 5).
2. Once you know the drain hose barb is installed properly, carefully push the 1/2" ID plastic drain hose completely over the barbed end of the fitting, and then attach a small hose clamp to the end of the line so it cannot work loose over time. Run the opposite end of this drain hose to the drain you are going to use for your system. Remember to leave a small air gap at the end of the hose going to the house drain. (Follow local plumbing codes), and secure it there.
3. When the system is in the backwash/regeneration mode, water will flow out of this drain line with a fair amount of pressure, especially during the "rapid rinse phases" of the process, and the line may sometimes "jump" a little when changing cycles.

Figure 5.

1. Next, connect your brine tank to your system. One end of the supplied 3/8" brine line tubing will be connected to your brine tank and the opposite end needs to be connected to your Fleck valve.
2. Look inside your brine tank and you will see a 4" diameter "Brine Well" tube. Remove the lid off the top of the brine well and look inside this tube. Here you will find the "Brine Float" assembly. The brine float assembly works like a toilet tank float, shutting the water off inside the brine tank should the level of water get too high. (See Figure 6).
3. Remove the brine float assembly from the brine well tube and check the distance from the top of the air check to the bottom of the float. This should be about 10 inches. You may have to remove a small section of the rod to adjust this height to 10 inches. (See Figure 7).
4. Replace the brine float assembly inside the brine well tube. Attach to the brine well tube with the small threaded screw and nut which is about 2" down from the top of the brine float assembly. Remove the black nut and then put the brine float back into the brine well. Notice there is a small hole drilled in the brine well, that you can insert this small section of screw through.
5. Hold the brine float with the section of screw in the hole as you put the small black nut back on. This is what holds the brine float in place. (See Figure 8).
6. On top of the brine float, you will see a larger black elbow with a black plastic nut. Carefully remove the black nut and you will find two small compression rings inside the nut, one black and one white. These small pieces help seal the end of the 3/8" tube that connects the brine tank with the valve on top of the system.
7. Each one of these small rings has a flat side. Hold the two small rings together with the flat sides touching. This is the way they fit together when they go inside the black nut, black piece first.
8. Next, insert one end of the 3/8" tubing though the hole in the side of the brine tank and brine well, and slide the black nut onto the tube with the threads facing the end of the tube. Then, slide the two small compression rings onto the tube, black piece first, then the white piece making sure the flat edges of both rings are together. (See Figure 9).
9. Now insert the end of the tube into the black elbow as far as it will go. Hold it there as you thread the black nut onto the black elbow, tightening it finger tight which compresses the two rings inside the nut onto the tubing. (See Figure 10).
10. Replace the lid on the top of the brine well! Your brine tank is now ready to be connected to the Fleck valve.
11. Take the other end of the 3/8" brine tube and find the 3/8" brass nut located on the valve body of your system. Remove this brass nut and you will find a small plastic compression ring inside.
12. Slide the brass nut over the end of the tube, threads facing the end of the tube. Then slide the compression ring on with the narrow side facing the end of the tube. (See Figure 11).
13. Insert the end of the tube fully into the opening on the valve where the brass nut was located, then slide the compression ring and brass nut up the tube, finally threading the brass nut back onto the threads. Tighten the brass nut gently with a small wrench.
14. Notice the plastic elbow that is located on the side of your brine tank. This is a "Safety Overflow", and will use the same size drain line that is used on the valve drain (1/2" ID flexible plastic line). This drain line will not be under pressure, so it must be directed to a drain that is physically lower than it is. DO NOT connect this drain line into the drain line coming from the Fleck valve! It must be run separately to the drain. (See Figure 12).
15. Filling the Brine Tank. Different size units need different amounts of water available for brine, inside the brine tanks. It is better to have more water than less! A 24,000 grain unit needs 5 gallons, a 32,000 grain unit needs 6 gallons, a 40,000 grain unit needs 7 gallons, a 48,000 grain unit needs 8 gallons, a 64,000 grain unit needs 9 gallons, a 80,000 grain unit needs 12 gallons, a 110,000 grain unit needs 17 gallons. A 1.0 cu/ft Nitrate or Tannin filter unit needs 6 gallons while a 1.5 cu/ft Nitrate or Tannin filter unit needs 8 gallons.
16. Add 240 lbs of "Solar Salt" or "Potassium Chloride" to the brine tank, and you are now ready to turn the water back on!

Figure 6.

Figure 7.

Figure 8.

Figure 9.

Figure 10.

Figure 11.

Figure 12.

1. Normally we will have already pre-set the meter on the system to regenerate, according to your water test results. If you are not sure what the meter is supposed to be set on, please give us a call with information on your water test results, and we will help you determine what setting to place your meter on.
2. Look in your service manual, for your particular model Fleck valve, and manually run your valve through a regeneration cycle. To do this, simply turn the manual "Regen" dial clockwise just a few "clicks" at a time, stopping at each setting for a minute, to clear the air out of the resin tank and valve. Once you have completed turning the "Regen" knob one complete revolution and it is set back to the "Service" position, the system is now ready for use!
3. Finally, plug the valve in the electrical outlet and set the current time of day. Our systems will regenerate around 2:00am. (See Figure 12).
4. Check all connections for leaks. You now have conditioned water!
5. Typically, you'll have two small parts left over that were not used in the installation. these parts are for the brine line connection tubing to the Fleck Control valve. These parts are only used when you are expecting to use rock salt which is very dirty. We recommend using any salt for softeners that is 99.5% pure salt, such as Solar Salt which does not require the use of these parts. (See Figure 13).

Figure 12.

Figure 13.